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Saturday, December 22, 2012

For the love of God

Deeply immersed in John Lennon’s Imagine I was interrupted by the not so sweet voice that played via the speakers asking us, passengers to fasten our seat belts as we were ready to land. Am on my way to a pilgrimage trip to Varanasi, Allahabad and Bodh Gaya. At an age where I should probably be going to the Amazon for a wild trek or sun bathing at the pristine coast of Goa, I am here at Varanasi – the revered land on earth. Rain welcome us as we get out the aircraft and just as we check out our baggage’s the not so happening airport shuts shop as ours was the last flight to land at 7:54 pm. It’s weird seeing an airport empty. The airport is situated around 22 kms from the main city and seems like not just Tamil Nadu but the holy land too is reeling under severe power cuts. I catch a fleeting glimpse of various road side eateries and local kirana shops doing business with just the help of a lantern.












If there is a competition for the rashest driving in a minimal area then the auto drivers of Varnasi will win hands down. Such is their speed that you need to make sure you’re quick and cautious on the road or there are all chances they might just knock you down and even before you realize they would have whizzed away. At any given point in the year, the city is flooded with people from every nook and corner of the world. There is no tourist season as such. The hippies coexist at ease alongside their Aryan counterparts in their flashy om pants, backpacks and a lonely planet guide in their hands.

 The oldest city of earth is home to Lord Kasi Vishwanath, who first founded the city 5000 years ago. All temples are inside gullies and you have to manoeuvre your way through the dingy alleys. After heavy security checks we manage to enter the temple only to be harassed by the priests for money. Despite offering money to the priests all we get is a ten second window to see the idol, Lord Vishwanath.

 Almost every place in the city is tucked away in small alleys. Even the way to the Ganges too is through these small alleys. The Ganges is quite a sight to take in. It’s just like the way you see in Google Images sans the gloss. The 64 Ghats stand like a fortress guarding the city from the mighty river. The boat ride on the Ganges is a must do activity.Scores of people take the holy dip notwithstanding the polluted remnants afloat. The city at every point is teeming with contrasts. While people diligently fill their bottles with the “Ganga Jal” the other side of the ghat is busy with the cremation of a dead body. The ashes are swift fully swept to the river making way for the next cremation.

 Our next stop in the pilgrimage trip is Allahabad. We proceed to the Triveni Sangam in the scorching heat. It’s funny how people not just wash away their sins but also their clothes and vehicles at the shore. The temple visits continued in Gaya too. The stopover at Bodh Gaya, the place Gautama Buddha attained enlightenment was a breather.

 As we are at the platform of Varanasi railway station to board our train back home it dawns upon me, despite the nebulous tones, intense textures and dishevelled character the enigmatic city is an assortment of old world charm that grows on you as you part with it.